Oxalic Acid for Varroa mite control…Not so much.

I just saw a presentation put on by the company who worked to get Oxalic acid approved in the US for Varroa Destructor mite treatment.  I wasn’t impressed, and in fact it only confirmed for me what many scientific articles and several books have concluded:

Varroa Destructor, as an introduced pest, has dramatically disrupted the life of Apis Mellifera, but the path to resolution of the problem lies with genetics, not chemicals.

Attempting chemical control of Varroa Destructor is a lost cause and is actually creating stronger mites, and weaker bees.

(Storey’s Guide to Keeping Honey Bees, Sanford and Bonney, Top-bar Beekeeping, Crowder and Harrell, and http://www.beeculture.com/splits-varroa-more-colonies-fewer-mites-new-queens-what-could-be-better/ , http://www.beeccdcap.uga.edu/documents/spivak466.pdf are some published examples)

Some extension agents were known, in the not so distant past, to pressure keepers into treating to ‘prevent the spread of mites’.  It seems more realistic in light of new research and the reality of feral survivor colonies that we should now pressure keepers NOT to treat, to prevent the spread of weak genetics that can only survive with human assistance through chemical treatment.

But still, a lot of us continue to search for a technological solution to a genetic problem.  Mites are here to stay.  And while we may one day get lucky and find a chemical that can block an essential part of the mites metabolic pathway that they can’t evolve their way out of, wouldn’t you rather have bees that didn’t NEED treatment? Varroa Destructor mite’s much shorter life cycle gives them a genetic edge–allowing them to evolve resistance to many of the chemical treatment we come up with in a relatively short period of time.  Using chemicals to weed out weak mites is only exacerbating the problem to the point that Storey’s Guide to Keeping Honey Bees even goes so far as to define a modern Honey Bee colony as having four permanent inhabitants, a queen, workers, drones, and mites…

The list of treatments no longer effective continues to grow (http://www.biosecurity.govt.nz/pests-diseases/animals/varroa/paper/varroa-treatment-options.htm, search for ‘resistance’ within the article).  As of this publication Treatments containing Thymol and Oxalic Acid, for now, seem to be an exception.  Contrary to tonights presentation, the article above even suggests that genetic resistance for Oxalic Acid is unlikely…time will tell.

The most rational ‘treatment’ for mite control we have at present is to assist natural selection by pushing the European Honey Bee toward more rapid evolution until they achieve Mite resistance and can live ‘in harmony’ with mites like their Asian cousins Apis Cerana, where the Bees and Varroa Destructor co-evolved in the first place (http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022201109001906, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varroa_destructor).

 

“But I’m not a geneticist…how can I enhance natural selection to make stronger bees?”

It’s simple.  Kill your queens that don’t produce offspring with hygienic behavior and allow the colony to rear it’s own new queen who will then mate with local, feral survivor stock (unless your neighborhood beekeepers also treat their bees, resulting in weak genetics in your regional drone population…).  (http://www.sare.org/Learning-Center/Fact-Sheets/A-Sustainable-Approach-to-Controlling-Honey-Bee-Diseases-and-Varroa-Mites/Text-Version/Testing-Honey-Bee-Colonies-for-Hygienic-Behavior)

This eliminates a queen with weak genetics, disrupts the brood cycle long enough to dramatically reduce mite populations, and results in a queen with locally tuned genetics for your region–hopefully with some hygienic or new, yet undiscovered mite resistant traits.

 

Here are a list of the things from the presentation tonight at the Buncombe County Bee Club (www.wncbees.org) meeting which prompted me to write this post…

Our well meaning, corporate sponsored presenter early on let us know that:

*Oxalic Acid is 95% effective at killing mites in the phoretic stage of their life cycle…

I took this to mean:
You only kill the weak mites, leaving the strong ones to breed a new, stronger crop of mites potentially even more genetically resistant to chemical treatment.  With their shorter life cycle (just 10 days from egg to adult) natural selection works at a rate more than 36 times faster than a bee colony whose queen is replaced annually (this is an over simplification, but you get the idea…The potential for genetic variation occurs with every new sexual reproduction event, but it’s more complex as Honey Bees mate with more than one drone, and my math above doesn’t account for winter in temperate regions).  Not only is this much more complicated because queens store sperm from many drones, confusing me on the difference between inter generational genetic variation (which will occurr every 10 days with mites, but only when the queen is replaced in a colony), and inter-sibling genetic variation (which must be less significant)…But I’m only lightly poking at (and becoming aware of) the significant complexities of natural selection forces on two entirely different types of reproductive strategies, that between the eusocial Honey Bee and the subsocial Varroa Destructor mite…(https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1224642/ and Honey Bee Biology and Beekeeping, Carson, Chapter 3: Sociality).

Any geneticists bothered to read this far?  Help me out, send a note to clear all this up for me.

Back to what the presenter had to say:

*The acid is ineffective at treating mites in the reproductive phase of their life cycle, inside capped brood cells.

*The acid is 70 times more toxic to mites than bees…meaning it is toxic to bees just 70x less.

*Treatment of packages (where all mites are in the phoretic stage and the Oxalic Acid would be most effective) isn’t recommend as bees treated in this way, tend to immediately abscond when hived.

*Treatment by Oxalic Acid should only be performed once a year to reduce the chance of creating resistant mites.

*Never treat a colony with honey supers on (I guess top bar keepers should mark their combs in the hive when treatment occurs).

*The acid in its concentrated form is a poison, and a corrosive agent.

*Handling requires protective googles, gloves, and clothing, as well as a readiness for immediate first aid measures.

*It is relatively cheap.  You can buy enough for several treatments… for about the same cost as a Minnesota hygienic queen.

*While he cautioned that stored diluted solutions should be well labeled, he showed bottles stored in a household refrigerator alongside food.  In my opinion, hazardous chemicals, especially corrosive poisons, should never be stored alongside food under any circumstances.

*If stored incorrectly, the dilute solution will contain break down products more toxic to bees.

And at this point, I decided to leave the presentation before it was finished.

 

Why would I put money into a dangerous chemical product, with special handling, storage, and disposal requirements, which may result in stronger mites while not hurting the bees ‘all that much’.

 

Especially when, for no cost at all, I can kill the queen in a weak hive and let them rear a new one, or bring in a new queen cell from a stronger hive…

 

Given that Varroa sensitive traits are genetically recessive (http://www.beeccdcap.uga.edu/documents/spivak466.pdf this is a great article) we’re going to have to have vast participation in no-treatment activity to enhance natural selection.

 

The one thing that gives me solace is that eusocial insects are some of the most successful on the planet, and genus Apis have managed to survive for 25 million years (http://bibba.com/honeybee-origins/).  Maybe all we really need to do is get out of their way and stop poisoning them with chemicals so they can evolve to withstand the parasites we have introduced to them through global trade.  Either way, I expect they will out live Homo sapiens on this planet, as they are not actively engaged in poisoning their own well.

 

But who needs the EPA, Really!

http://www.salon.com/2017/01/23/trumps-plan-to-slash-75-percent-of-regulations-will-come-at-the-cost-of-the-environment/

http://www.truth-out.org/news/item/39377-republicans-introduce-bill-to-terminate-the-environmental-protection-agency

 

 

Bees Bees Bees, So Many Genera!

A short  missive from the land of the Maya:

    We took a little break from the cold and came down to the Yucatan for the holidays.  Of course the first thing I did when we made it to home base in Merida was to hunt down a beekeeper.  According to the one shop owner/beekeeper (apicultor) we spoke with, for genus mellifera bee keepers, their busy season runs from January to May. He has around 200 Langstroth hives and sells a thin, sweet, aromatic, fruity honey in plastic 1 Liter bottles (1400grams) for 150 pesos or around $7.50.

    If his labels are any indication, they have more stringent labeling requirements here than we do in NC as he has full nutrition information, net weight (in grams and ounces), full contact information including business name, phone, address, and email.mayan-honey-label
    I wish I had a refractometer with me to test this honey…It’s hot as blazes here (95F yesterday!), but still, it doesn’t seem like this honey is anywhere close 18.6% water, as it flows like water…A very different honey from raw WNC honey.  What’s really exciting though is that they have several other genus of honey producing bees here that I have spoken with folks about.
Tigona and Melipona!!!
  These are little, stingless bees with small colony size that naturally live in hollow trees, and are kept in hives of hollow logs or clay pots.  The genus Melipona bees have a horizontal brood nest (like a stack of pancakes on a stick) sometimes surrounded by sheets of wax forming a kind of ball around the combs.  They make little wax pots outside (around or beside the brood nest) with openings at the top to store nectar in!  They are just crazy amazing.  I’m trying to schedule a visit to “bee planet” (abeja planet) just South of Merida.  They’ve shipped all their Melipona bees to Valladolid for the ‘winter’ but still have some Trigona bees at the site.  So close to Christmas though, in this Catholic country, it’s not easy getting together with people in the mad holiday rush of pre-Christmas festivals and shopping.
    If anyone has contacts or knows of bee sanctuaries/demonstration apiaries/bee keepers here in the Yucatan near Merida, please let me know, as I’m not sure I’m actually going to be able to pull off a visit with the folks at bee planet (they’re officially on vacation until after we head back to the US).
I’m pretty amazed by these tiny, stingless, honey collecting bees!
    Here’s an image of their little horizontal, pancake-stack style brood chamber:
http://www.radiomas.mx/apicultura-y-meliponas-veracruz-agropecuario/
    Here’s a top view showing the organization of the hive with little pots between the brood nest and entrance:
    A google image search for melipona bee will give you loads more to look at, but this guy has some really beautiful shots (aside from the water mark he uses to copyright the images:

Top Bar Hive Plans

http://www.wasatchbeekeepers.com/resources/top-bar-hive-plans-david-bench/

Wasatch Beekeepers Association Top Bar Hive Plans

  • http://www.wasatchbeekeepers.com/resources/top-bar-hive-plans-david-bench/

 

These plans from the Wasatch Beekeepers Association in Utah, by David Bench are extremely well drawn with clear dimensions and steps outlined right on the diagram.  They also take into account using standard sized lumber, and bars that match the length of Langstroth hives–a consideration that can prove very useful in a mixed hive-style apiary or when sharing bees with friends using different equipment.

Though our design has been slightly modified from these, they were a great starting point. We don’t use their legs, or feeder designs, preferring rather to simply cut a hole in the back of the hive for a standard boardman feeder to slide into.  We’ve also modified the window design to create more of a light trap to prevent sunlight from coming into the cracks around the window opening by using glass the full length of the side, also eliminating the need to cut a hole out of one solid piece of wood.  This is easier and allows for smaller lumber to be used just cut two full length boards with grooves to hold the window in place.

A big thanks to David Bench and the Wasatch Beekeepers Association for publishing these hive plans!